कचर्याचे वर्गीकरण असे करा- मराठी

सुका कचरा	सेंद्रिय कचरा	निरुपयोगी कचरा
पिशवी मधे गोळा करणे	हिरव्या बिन मधे गोळा करणे	तुमच्या घरच्या बिन मधे गोळा करणे
मजबूत पिशवी वापरा	प्लास्टिक वापरू नये, वर्तमानपत्र वापरणे	कागदामधे गुंडाळून देणे उत्तम
कगद प्लास्टिक काचा धातु थर्माकोल लाकडाचे टुकडे कापड झाडू आणि लादी पुसायचे कापड घसणी चमकणारे कागद टेट्रापैक चीनी मातीचे टुकडे थोड्या प्रमाणात प्लास्टिक आणि टाकाऊ ताट आणि भांडी	स्वयंपाकघरातील- फळ- भाज्यांची देठ आणि सालं उरलेले आणि खराब झालेले अन्न मांसाहारी अन्न चहा- कॉफी चे गाळण अन्न चिकटलेले टिशू आणि कागद सुपारी पानाचे किव्हा उसाच्या चोथ्यानी बनवलेले ताट, भांडी पाळीव प्राण्यांचे अन्न- विष्ठा टाकू नये बागेतून- फुलं, पाने, छोटी फळे, छोट्या काठ्या- काड्या देव्हार्यातून- फुले, पाने, छोटी फळे, प्रसाद, सुती दोरा	सानीटरि नाप्कीन डायपर कंडोम ब्लेड ड्रेसिंग आणि इंजेक्शन जुनी औषधे जुने मेक-उप चे सामान जुने रंग कीटनाषक आणि त्याचे डबे झाडताना गोळा झालेला धूळ-कचरा
मंगळवारी आणि शनिवारी जमा केले जाईल	रोज जमा केला जाईल	रोज जमा केला जाईल
डेब्री- विटा, राबिट, बांधकामातील सर्व कचरा- महापालिकेच्या गाडीला बोलावून माफक दरात उचलले जाईल. तोपर्यंत गोण्यांमध्ये भरून ठेवणे.
ई- वेस्ट- सर्व इलेक्ट्रोनिक आणि विजेची उपकरणे, एक्स रे, ट्यूब आणि बल्ब, बेटरी आणि त्यावर चालणारी उपकरणे खेळणी, सी डी, कसेट, मोबाईल- महिन्याच्या शेवटच्या शनिवार- रविवार जमा करणे

कचरा छाटणे कि विधी - हिंदी

सुखा कचरा	खाद बनाने योग्य कचरा	निरुपयोगी कचरा
थैली में रखना	हरा बिन	आपका बिन
थैली मजबूत होनी चाहिये	प्लास्टिक लाइनर नही कागज इस्तेमाल करे	प्लास्टिक नही कागज में लपेट के डाले
कागज प्लास्टिक कांच धातु थर्माकोल लकडे के टुकडे कपडे झाडू और पोछा का कपडा जूते और बैग फोआईल टेट्रापैक प्लास्टिक और थर्माकोल के प्लेट और बर्तन टूटे हुये गमले स्क्रबर और स्पंज	रसोई से- सब्जी और फलो के छिलके बचा हुआ या खराब खाना मांसाहारी पदार्थ पालतू पक्षी प्राणी का खाना (विष्ठा नही) चाय कॉफी पत्ती खाने के साथ रहा हुआ टिशू और कागज पत्तो से बने प्लेट और बर्तन बगीचे से- फूल, पत्ते, छोटे फळ, टहनिया मंदिर से- फूल, पत्ते, छोटे फल, प्रसाद, सूती धागे लकडी का भूसा फलो के साथ रखी घास	सेनिटरि नाप्किन डायपर कंडोम ब्लेड ड्रेसिंग और इंजेक्शन पुरानी दवाइया, पुराना मेक अप का समान रंग कीटनाशक और उनके डिब्बे, कव्हर झाडू करणे से निकली हुई धूल- कचरा
हर मंगलवार, शनिवार जमा किया जायेगा	हर रोज जमा किया जायेगा	हर रोजजमा किया जायेगा
डेब्री- रेती, बालू, टूटे हुये गमले या बाथरूम का समान, इंट – बी एम सी द्वारा बुलाये जाने पर उठाया जायेगा.
ई वेस्ट- बिजली से चलने वाले उपकरण, इलेक्ट्रोनिक उपकरण, थार्मामीटर, एक्स रे, बल्ब, ट्यूब, बाटरी और उसपे चलने वाले खिलोने उपकरण, सी डी, मोबाईल - हर महीने के आखरी शनिवार- रविवार को जमा करना है

SEGREGATION CHART- ENGLISH

DRY WASTE	ORGANIC WASTE	REJECT WASTE
BAG	GREEN BIN	YOUR OLD BIN
PREFER  STRONG REUSABLE BAG	LINE WITH NEWSPAPER NOT PLASTIC	LINE WITH PAPER NOT PLASTIC- WRAP IN PAPER
PAPER PLASTIC GLASS METAL THERMOCOL WOOD PIECES CLOTH BROOMS AND DUSTERS FOOTWEAR AND BAGS FOIL TETRAPAK DISPOSABLE PLATES/ CUPS SCRUBBERS AND SPONGES CERAMIC- SMALL QUANTITY	KITCHEN WASTE- Raw and cooked vegetable and fruit parts Leftover or spoilt food Veg and Non veg food Pet food (not feaces) Tea and coffee bags and grounds Tissue and kitchen paper soiled with food Biodegradable plates and cups GARDEN WASTE- Leaves, twigs, flowers, fruit, seeds NIRMALYA- Flowers, small fruit, leaves, Prasad, cotton thread	SANITARY NAPKINS DIAPERS CONDOMS BLADES DRESSINGS OUTDATED MEDICINES OUTDATED COSMETICS INSECTICIDE AND PESTICIDE COVERS PAINTS COLOURS DRESSINGS/ INJECTIONS DUST- DIRT COLLECTED AFTER SWEEPING
COLLECTED- TUESDAY AND SATURDAY	COLLECTED EVERYDAY	COLLECTED EVERYDAY
DEBRIS- BRICKS, CEMENT, TILES, FIXTURES, RUBBLE (RABBIT), SAND, CERAMIC- LARGE QUANTITY- BMC ON CALL SERVICE
E- WASTE- ELECTRIC ITEMS, ELECTRONIC ITEMS, THERMOMETER, X RAY, BULBS AND TUBES, BATTERY OPERATED TOYS- COLLECTED LAST WEEKENED OF EVERY MONTH

COURSE IN MUMBAI ECOLOGY

For the last 10 years or so, I have really wished there was something....like an adult learners' program or a short course where I could get authoritative knowledge and training about ecology. From these thoughts, I came up with the following outline for a certificate course.

If I get a good number of applicants, I can send across a formal proposal to someone.

MUMBAI  URBAN ECOLOGY

With the expansion of cities, erstwhile rural and forest areas are getting urbanised. This phenomenon is happening in all parts of the world and in Mumbai also. Secondly, within well established urban areas in Mumbai, there are unique ecosystems with their own flora and fauna (even if limited). Examples are kingfishers in gaothans, Coucals spread all over Mumbai and numerous sightings of snakes. Inspite of being a megalopolis, in Mumbai all is not lost. In other words, we still have a lot to lose if we do not protect Mumbai’s ecology now.

In addition, there is nothing to suggest that urbanisation should necessarily lead to environment destruction. Maybe the quality of the environment will not be anywhere near when it was in a pristine state. But we can ensure some greenery and mitigate the process of destruction. This is in our own interests as environment protection helps to preserve local resources, improves local ambience and has been clearly associated with good health outcomes for communities.

 Mumbaikars need to learn about ecology and simple methods of preservation as applicable to Mumbai. This will promote environment- mindedness and enhance knowledge and agency where it already exists. We should aim to gift our coming generations the remaining jewels of nature, natural resources (water) and a pollution-free Mumbai.

To achieve this we need to do following two things-

1. Bring together like-minded Mumbaikars and Mumbai- lovers under the ‘Mumbai Urban Ecology’ group. This is already happening due to self motivated, well informed persons and by ngos and activists.  

2. Provide know- how and training to those seeking to learn and be instrumental in the study and protection of ‘Mumbai Urban Ecology’. This is required by persons who have a strong desire to participate but lack the confidence or knowledge or both.

For understanding and protecting Mumbai urban ecology, hi-fi expert knowledge like environment engineering or PhD are not needed. An accurate knowledge and orientation to the thought process are needed. This can be achieved by a short course on a part-time basis with exposure to relevant topics.

Hence, with respect to the second point, I propose to have a ‘Mumbai Urban Ecology’ course.

The course should be a distance- education or online course. I propose it should be a year long course with following curriculum:

MODULE 1- INTRODUCTION ‘MUMBAI URBAN ECOLOGY’

What is ecology? What is Urban Ecology? Methods of study and documentation. Historical perspectives. Present ecology. Distribution of dissertation topics

MODULE 2- INTERFACE

Urbanisation and environment- effect and impact. Concept of environmental impact assessment. Rules and laws. Review of Movements, campaigns and ngo work- occurred in Mumbai or with relevance to Mumbai.

MODULE 3- PROBLEMS OF URBAN ECOLOGY 1

Habitat destruction. Resource depletion. And their mitigation.  

MODULE 4- PROBLEMS OF URBAN ECOLOGY-2

Pollution and its mitigation. Include studies on ‘green’ architecture and ‘green/ sustainable’ living, green designs

MODULE 5- APPROACHES TO URBAN ECOLOGY

Study and documentation. Adverse impacts mitigation. Education. Advocacy and activism.  This module should be designed to cause reflection in the student about what should be their role, what do they want to do with the learning in the course

ASSESSMENT

1. Group discussion

2. Dissertation presentation

METHOD OF IMPLEMENTATION OF COURSE

Course can have two coordinators and we can have a first trial batch with nominal fee or sponsored by some environment- minded organisation. We will have to organise experts from relevant fields to take respective topics. Some experts will also be needed to guide the students and/ or assess the dissertations. Many field trips will have to be organised.

The expenses will arise from

1. Faculty remuneration

2. classroom and other incidentals

3. Field visits

4. Study material

5. administrative costs 

MY EXPERIENCE OF HOME COMPOSTING 2

Around 2009, I read somewhere that composting is a natural process and ‘happens all the time”. The thought stayed with me and I thought I should try it out. So I began to collect all the kitchen waste in gardening containers with a layer of soil in between two days’ stuff. It looked ok for a few days and then it started leaking- so I loaded the whole thing onto another container with soil and it was ok. A few weeks later, I got the shock of my life when I discovered my unit had been attacked by rodents and what a revolting mess it was! I wished I never should have got into it. Gathering my wits by me, I tidied it- with more containers and fortified it with mesh. Still the rodents were not discouraged. So I shifted the unit to under my kitchen sink.

Now rodents had no access. Next problem was- even after 2 months everything was looking as I had put it and there was no sign of any process of composting. (This was before the internet compost coaching was common or maybe I had not yet taken to it.) Plus I needed soil and containers. I was accumulating stuff at such pace that I was running out of space and time to be able to deal with it. I thought I should add some microbes to hurry the process so I began to add curds or buttermilk. It helped somewhat by slightly hurrying the process. But still it took 3-4 months to get processed and considering that much of it was soil, the net amount of compost generated was miniscule. Sol I could manage only part of the waste generated and rest of it went to the dump.

Then I met Aniruddha and stumbled on Bokashi. Bokashi is quite elegant and incredible method of composting. First I tried with simple homemade system. It consisted of two sets of a pair of cheap plastic bins nesting into one another (total 4). It turned out to be much easier than what I was doing and I was able to process much more waste than earlier and it did not need day to day inputs. The problem was I still had logistical issues managing the leachate and burying the bokashi. In the early phase, I used to be very unpopular with folks at home who had to put up with the strong smells twice a week. Even my 5 year old son began to resent ‘compost’. Plus I was still not able to manage full volume. This was around 2012. After 6 months of struggling with this, I ordered the ‘Ecobin’ kit. I will say, I am a satisfied customer of this product and my composting journey reached destination with this final move.

It took me almost a year and a half to perfect the method...mainly because I was really not too sincere initially. Now a single scrap of organic waste does not leave my house. I have extended it use to my workplace- where it works fine 90pc of the time. It goes bad when staff change or some misunderstanding occurs...otherwise its going fine. The bin sits imperceptibly in the reception area doing its work quietly.

So folks, I have spent close to a decade perfecting the composting solution for my home. It need not actually take so much time. For the first 7-8 years I was like a rolling stone, constantly changing track. With bokashi, I stuck around and learned rapidly. I am somewhat curious by nature and continue to explore composting methods because I am totally fascinated by composting. My next challenge is going to be scaling up and I am hoping that my participation in the swacch parle abhiyaan gives me a chance to learn this bit.

VERMICOMPOSTING IN PARLE

Vermicomposting is particularly suitable for those Parlekars with a passion for gardening. Vermicompost is the best nutrition for plants, even better than commercial fertilizer. Plus being natural and organic, it has other benefits also.

One can do vermicomposting in one of the ready commercial kits. Following can be availed by Parlekars

Kalpataru Goldbox

1. 3- tier kit- from Mr Koustubh Yadre who operates with the company MYCO- COMPOST.

 www.myco-compost.com/ org

2. Kalpataru Goldbox- from Mr Prakash Dandekar, details easily on the internet

3. HPDE material system provided by one mr Mahadik operating from his office at Mahim...unfortunately not having details with me.

4. Inora composter container in which one can directly grow plants

5. Mr Shrotriya’s vermicomposting basket available at Goregaon near the office of the water department of bmc.

Alternatively one can start vermicomposting in any plastic or earthen vessel. Plastic vessel will need to have lots of holes and be of a dark colour. Worms need air and darkness. A layer of brick pieces, should be followed by a layer of sugarcane fibre or coconut husk and then a layer of fine soil or sand. All these should be thoroughly watered and the water should drain easily through holes at the bottom. On top of this one should add worms, vermiculture or even a bag of vermicompost which often has worms and cocoons. Worms can be had from Mr Shrotriya of water department of BMC. He has kept some demo systems at Goregaon. Otherwise one can have vermiculture from Inora farms at Pune or from Mr Prakash Dandekar. Many years ago I also collected loads of worms from roadside soil where I identified them by presence of vermicasts. But this is possible only in the Monsoon. And best place to collect castings is actually Aarey colony or National Park. One small 200g curds dabba full is enough to start the composting. Ideally one must put a mug of cow dung to vitalise the worms- but this is optional. This whole set up should be covered with moist gunny sack and kept in cool shade with good access and air circulation.

Also available from NEW PARK SUN GARDENS, C- 505, Shree Ganasiddivinayak CHS, Lt Dilip Gupte Marg, RBI Qtrs, Mahim, Mumbai- 16. Ph- 9322296887

One should start adding the peels and unedible parts of raw vegetables and fruit. Except garlic, onion, lemon and similar strong and sour ones. Give a light stir about two times a week. After about a month stop adding material for 2-3 days. Shift the coarse material on one side and harvest compost from other side. Put back the coarse material and continue use.

Composters with two or three compartments make harvesting very easy and do not involve much handling of worms. They also reduce worm mortality because fresh matter is not in close proximity to them.

Once in about a year or two you will have to empty the full bin to remake the layers, Particularly the sugarcane fibre or coconut husks. These being organic materials, they get degraded. Changing the layers also helps to check the health of worms and it is better to add few worms from a different source than last time- to provide ‘new gene pool’. (I think)

MY EXPERIENCE OF HOME COMPOSTING 1

When I was a kid, in the Pune Indian Express, some lady called Mrs Usha Coundinya used to write articles about vermicomposting and I used to be very fascinated by her write- ups. Though the fascination never transformed into action.

Cut to 2004, I met Mr Prakash Dandekar and the whole fascination got re-ignited. I bought the single unit vermicomposting unit ‘Kalpataru’ Goldbox from him and started. We kept it in the West- facing balcony grille. I happily harvested compost after 2- 3 mts but not a single worm was to be seen. They may have died sometime. In retrospect, I feel what I harvested may not have been true compost either. I gave off the wire cage because I had no patience to set it up again. But I met Mr Dandekar again- and bought another cage from him. This time there was a brief time when it smelled badly a great deal and I had to consult Dandekar who told me not to add- cooked food, dairy products, citrus, onion and garlic- and things settled down. But hubby noticed some white creatures and concluded they must be THE WHITE ANTS (TERMITES). In a moment the whole unit went to garbage! (Actually the white dots are mites which are seen when the moisture content is excessive and can be addressed by adding some dry leaves or cardboard or allowing aeration and mixing thoroughly later to adjust the mositure) The third time around, I was able to manage the cage for a few months till it was attacked by squirrels and rats who seemed to have developed a taste for worms. It was too much for me to actually witness the squirrel slurping down a worm from the cage. That was the last Kalpataru unit I bought. Though Mr Dandekar remained a good friend and I maintained the desire to compost.

MY VERDICT

Vermicomposting- 

it is the ideal home composting method only if you are keen on organic gardening because no organic compost comes even close to vermicompost in quality. Considering that vermicompost is difficult to source consistently, it would be wise to make it yourself to have a steady supply.

But worms need careful handling which is tricky for beginners especially in an artificial setting like a bin or cage- which is the only option in Mumbai. Soil- based beds and pits are a rare luxury here. Worms cannot process all wet waste which is disappointing if your aim in composting is to have a zero waste home. And worms being sensitive are prone to die off due to subtle changes in weather or moisture- one has to really get a hang of it. General recommendation is to add cow dung to get best results. But if you are a home composter you cannot practically do it. Cow dung is difficult to get, transport and put in the unit. It gives off a strong smell for at least 2 days and worst of all it attracts flies...after one attempt I never went anywhere near cow dung in my life. The Jain community does not accept vermicomposting due to religious beliefs.

Kalpataru Gold Box- 

The product is quite unique in being easily available and replicable. Materials are cheap and easily available. So you are better off buying a unit from Mr Dandekar. It takes some learning to manage and is by no means as easy as claimed. Firstly, you must keep the unit in a shaded area at waist height in easily accessible spot. Keeping in sunny balcony grille, under kitchen sink or on top of AC will not work. It should be kept in a dark, airy accessible spot where temperature remains more or less stable. My observation is that the home foyer where we keep footwear is the most ideal place, if available. To the small, nuclear family sized unit you can add only about two fist-fulls of material daily. So if you plan to shell kilos of peas in winter, then you will have to store the peels and add them to the cage at the rate of two fist fulls daily. Always stir the material lightly- only the top 2-3 inches layer after adding. And preferably cover with a piece of gunny sac. You will have to add a layer of fine metal mesh all around to protect from squirrels if that is a risk. As mentioned above you can add only flowers and vegetable trimmings; nothing else. Periodically you have to spray water from the sides as it tends to dry out at the edges. Take care not to empty the whole cage while harvesting. Just remove from top half and then continue using. This cage will last about 3-4 years as the metal is prone to rust. In the 2- compartment variation, a mesh is added in the middle. The idea is to fill one side and earthworms move in to process it while you add to other side. This is a good advancement as you can add material without worrying about quantity- and earthworms can move in when it is partially decomposed and ready for their consumption. Harvesting can be done without practically encountering any worms because they have moved to other side. The worm mortality is likely to be lower in this system. Only it needs slightly bigger place.

HOME VERMICOMPOSTING TODAY

Many methods of vermicomposting are put on the net. I am not so sure if the 3- bin method works in Mumbai, because we are never sure which worms we are going to get. For all we know we might have to do with bottom feeders or local ‘desi’ worms then they don’t migrate upwards. I do vermicomposting because I need the compost for my garden and also because I really love rearing worms. I have taken the practical approach of vermicomposting in two drums (about 40l capacity, used with lids). I have made the 3- tier bed- brickbats, followed by thick bedding of sugarcane fibre or coconut husk covered by layer of fine soil and sand. This covers about lower one third of my drum with drainage holes at the bottom. Plus I have made many holes at the top for aeration. On top of this I added the vermiculture which has baby worms. I got the vermiculture from Inora farms at Pune. Parlekars can get worms from Mr Shrotriya of the water Dept of MCGM (He is a master vermicomposter- it’s his hobby) or from Devangini society. Then I just went on adding the green materials. I stir them two times a week. When the drum fills up, I stop adding and start the second drum. After 45 days the compost from first drum is ready for harvesting. I have kept my drums in balcomy in the shade of a huge tamarind tree. I have to cover it with gunny bags for warmth in winter and wet gunny bags to provide cooling in summer.

 I think vermicomposting is one of the good options, provided you realise that worms are living beings and you need to raise them as pets.